Renaissance
In the earliest half of the 16th century monarchs such as Francois I of France (r. 1515-47) and Henry VIII of England (r. 1509-1547) vied for the best stones for setting in jewels. The new attractive vocabulary, which reflected the emulation of Classical art, included putti, acanthus leaves, scrolls, nymphs, satyrs, bucrania, cornucopias, masks, and military trophies, as well as architectural elements. Diamond never dominates in jewels, which are approximately always cultural or spiritual statements as well as displays of wealth. Rich gold settings for diamonds are improved with enamels over the latter half of the century. The brooch, earlier so important, is eclipsed by the pendant, the quintessential Renaissance jewel.
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